HID Illusionz has a wide assortment of OEM and aftermarket projectors. Depending on the type of headlights you have will limit your choices to a certain degree. For example, if you have a bi-halogen type bulb, like 9003/H4, 9004/9007, or H13, your only option is to stick with a bi-xenon type projector, so you will still have low and high beam functions. Those with separate low and high beam setups have the best of both worlds with going with a single xenon or bi-xenon projector, along with the option of a quad projector setup. Because there are so many different options of projectors to go with, we have narrowed down our choices of projectors to go with to give you the best performance, along with pricing based on your budget. When it comes to aftermarket projectors, the Morimoto H1, Morimoto D2S, and FX-R is our top choices. For OEM projectors, RX330, RX350, TL, TSX, SC430, and S2000’s are your top choices but also based on availability. Check out our shop for more options, or if you have questions, please feel free to contact us.

HID Illusionz has a wide assortment of shrouds to choose from. Shrouds essentially finish off the overall appearance of the lights. These are only needed if your headlights are not factory projector style headlights. In some cases, there may be limitations based on the shape or size of your reflector. Contact us with your year, make, and model and we can discuss about the different options that are available. In most cases, most shrouds are usable. Check out our shop to see the wide variety of shrouds we have to offer.

For most HID projector setups, your standard D2S is really your only option to go with other than the Morimoto Mini H1 projector setup. You have the options of going with OEM or aftermarket HID setups, except for H1 HID bulbs. OEM bulbs and ballasts are generally going to give you better quality and longer life on average, but this does not mean it is guaranteed. Because of this, we recommend going with the Morimoto Elite H1 or D2S HID systems to compliment your retrofit setup not only because of its quality they have to offer, but also their outstanding hassle free 5 years of warranty servicing. And with every HID kit will be included with a plug and play relay wiring harness. This makes it very simple to install and takes the straight off your factory wiring. It’s better to replace this harness if something were to go wrong as opposed to your factory wiring.

The final component needed in order to finish off your lights. Every headlight we build, additional headlight sealant is always used to ensure your lights are going to be condensation free. We only use the best Morimoto RetroRubber Rubber Butyl, the same stuff they use for most headlamps that use butyl sealant. This stuff is a bit thicker than your typical window butyl sealant most people use when sealing lights, but that’s what makes the RetroRubber better. It requires a little more heat to soften, which makes it less likely for the lights to separate during hot climate weathers or just from the heat of the engine bay.

Permasealed headlights are a little more different. You are not able to heat the sealant like butyl and have it ripped apart with ease. However, heating up permaseal will help soften it just enough to loosen it depending on certain types of models. Others will just make it flat out impossible where other options will come into play. But for those that you can remove the lenses with permasealed headlights, everything will be cleaned out so the new RetroRubber can be applied for easier access to pulling them apart again if it is ever needed.

Just your typical add-on’s for your lights to give it that extra uniqueness. Angel eyes/halos are your most common add-on’s most people like to go with. With the high demand for them, we have options from white, amber, or switchback, as well as RGB setups using remotes or bluetooth function. You have the option of having them mounted on top or behind the shrouds depending on the type of shroud that will allow light to bleed through. If you have a projector style headlight, you only have the option to have them mounted on top.

Other accessories to be added is LED’s whether it be plug and play type bulbs,  strips, or specific applications depending on year, make, and model to be mounted somewhere within the lights. These will set your lights apart from the rest that have a typical setup. We have a wide variety of products that should suit just about everyones needs to make their unique retrofit come to life.

First, we need to discuss about the setup you are looking for on your specific setup. There are a lot of options to go with, like what kind of projectors and shrouds you want to use and whether you want to have the headlights painted a specific color scheme or any additional add-on’s you may think of. Once we figure out exactly what type of setup with the projectors and shrouds you would like to use, the next step would be to send us a set of lights for the actual retrofit. If you cannot supply a set of lights, it’s not a problem. We can supply you with brand new OEM or replica headlights.

No deposits would be required other than special order products not listed in our shop or for headlights. We would rather retrofit your entire setup for you first and let you see the actual final product of what your own retrofit will look like with pictures first before any payment is made.

So now that we have your lights in our hands, we will then take our time to retrofit your lights to your exact specifications. Once completed, we will take pictures from our typical 5 angle shots and show you how it looks, even if it has been done before, we would feel more comfortable that you know that the pictures you are receiving is for your own very specific retrofit and no one else. No matter what we do, each and every retrofit we complete receives our upmost undivided attention from start to finish as if they are our very own retrofit. After you see the pictures and give us the “OK”, we will package your retrofit and send you a finalized invoice of the total amount.

Turnaround time for a full retrofit generally takes us about a week or two depending on how many others are ahead of you. If you need the lights to be completed sooner, please let us know in advance and we will work with you to make sure you receive your lights within a timely manner. For local customers, depending on the difficulty of your retrofit, we can complete a full retrofit within the same day and have you on your way to enjoy your lights.

When packaging your own parts to ship to us, please be very careful with how it is been packaged. Remember, you are not hand delivering your own parts directly to us so make sure any parts of the headlights that could potentially get damaged is well packed and away from the edge of the box. We all know that shipping carriers toss, stack, and sometimes even wrestle with boxes. So if you fail to put enough padding to secure mounting tabs, corners, or any other parts of your lights that is fragile, then you are asking for damage to occur, so think twice on how you package before shipping.

While packaging your contents, we also request that you place a note within your package with your contact info as well as a detailed description of what you would like to get done with your retrofit. We ask that you do this to help our organizational skills with all the other customers that arrive. It is difficult to back track on everyone’s parts if there is no information for that package. But in cases of situations where you want to purchase your own set of lights and have it directly shipped to us, no problem. Just let us know the tracking number and we will keep a close eye on it and let you know when it arrives.

Installing the lights yourself is actually a lot simpler than you may think. Here are a few tips to go by to help you out.

Installing your headlights on your vehicle:

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You should find a place where you would like to stabilize & mount your ballast (find the driest area so the ballast will be minimized from getting wet).
• You must securely install the plug and play wire harness and ballasts (double check connections).
• Use double sided tape to mount ballasts. Clean the surface really well or the adhesvie will not bond. If double sided tape is not your favor, zipties will work as well.
• Install your retrofitted headlight on your vehicle (use your owner’s vehicle manual).

Aiming Projector Beam Pattern:

• Before you align your beam patterns on your headlights: you should try to find a clean wall where you can park at ground level and about 20 to 25 feet away.
• To aim the height of your beam pattern you must locate your headlight adjustment knobs. In most cases the knobs should be located directly in the back side of each headlight.
• Place your vehicle a couple inches from the wall perfectly perpendicular and find your center point of each headlight. When you turn the lights on, you will notice a very small beam. Find the step on the cutoff line and mark your cross hairs on the wall with some colored tape or something for temporary use.
• As straight as you can: Reverse your vehicle 20 to 25 feet away from the wall and start adjusting the headlights until the step portion of each cutoff meets the center point of your marking. Make sure your lower left side of each cutoff line overlaps each other.
• Riding Time: Go for a test drive and see where your beam pattern is hitting on other peoples vehicles. Our general rule of thumb for most passenger size vehicles are that if you are roughly 5 to 7 car lengths behind another passenger size vehicle, the cutoff line should not go above the top of the rear bumper. Why do we do it this way? Simple. Because in most places, to find a perfectly leveled ground with a decent sized wall is nearly impossible, so this will get you a general idea of where your cutoff line should be.